Sunday, July 29, 2012

France, Italy, Monaco, France



My apologies for my lack of writing in the past few weeks but I've been traipsing across France and my time to relax has been few and far between.  I left Avignon yesterday and I am now traveling with a great friend of mine in the French Riviera, the start of my first real vacation and it has been absolutely spectacular.  The Côte d’Azur is one of the most beautiful coastal spots that I have seen in a long while.  Our first two nights we are in a small town outside of the hustle and bustle of Nice called Villefranche-sur-mer that is quaint, with gorgeous beaches and perfect for the beginning of our short and sweet vacation.  Today we went to Italy, to a small town called Ventimiglia and then back to Monaco.  It being Sunday, not much was going on anywhere but the Italians were very happy.  Monaco was insane, so much grandeur, but not as we expected and we spent two hours looking for a grocery store which was nowhere to be found, and the one we did find was closed.  We ended up spending a nice afternoon on the beach after being underwhelmed at the Monte Carlo casino.  Then we came back to Villefranche, picked up our bags, waited forty-five minutes for a bus because the five buses from the time we got to the stop were “complet” and therefore they wouldn’t take any more passengers.  Just to spite the public transportation system in the south of France, we didn’t “compost” our tickets, which means we can use them tomorrow!  I’ll make sure to update more frequently, if I have access to the internet. 

Friday, July 13, 2012

Montpellier, France


Life in Avignon seems to go on; in a good way of course.  A few days ago my host parents went to a concert at the amphitheatre in Nimes and I asked them if it was all right to invite two of my friends over to cook dinner with me.  They said of course although they were a bit worried I think that I might burn the house down, forget to feed the cat, or some other kind of incident when in fact everything went quite well.  I cooked some pasta with mushrooms and zucchini and salad.  And for dessert A___ made profiteroles.  We also had the rosé that my great uncle had given me the weekend before, “for when I was thirsty.”  Cooking the profiteroles was quite the adventure because although my host mom had showed me how to use their complicated small, gas stove, for some reason when the time came, I couldn’t get it to work, so I pulled down the toaster oven as I had seen my host mom do before and I plugged it in outside on the deck and we cooked the profiteroles in there.  They were a bit crispy on the bottom but otherwise quite perfect.  We had a grand time, the cat survived and so did we.  





 Last night I went to a performance as part of the Festival d’Avignon “In.”  The play was called The Master and Margarita.   It was performed in the Palais de Papes in the Cour d’Honneur, which is an amazing theater/performance space.  Quite the treat!  It lasted three hours and my tushy was uncomfortable for three hours.  My mind was also a bit unsettled as the performance unfolded however because the story line was unclear for the first hour and then the last two hours didn’t really relate to the first hour.  Some of the characters were quite strange including a cat puppet that spoke vulgar things and had red eyes like the “diable.”  The most impressive part of the performance, besides the space itself was the use of technology.  They had a few video cameras on the stage and would occasionally film the actors during the performance and project those images on to the walls of the Cour d’Honneur or on the stage adding some very magnificent special effects.  A good experience and great special effects! 

 


Today was a mixed bag.  My parents moved from our house that I have lived in for twenty-one years to another house in which I have never lived.  We will now be living in Montpelier, which I love as a city and I think I will grow to love the house.  Nonetheless being so far from home (if that still exists) was a bit strange knowing that my homes were in transition.  Instead of being melancholy all day I went to Montpellier, France, which is a fantastic city.  Montpellier is very pedestrian friendly and a huge college town so there are many young people and easy to use and frequently accessible public transportation of various sorts.  I went with two friends and we toured the city following a guide from the office of tourism that showed us some main sights and then we had a lunch of delicious salads in a small piazza.  After lunch we took the tram and then a bus to the beach.  We had originally thought we would rent bikes, but it turned out to be much more complicated and too expensive and the tram was quite enjoyable.  I took a nap on the beach and then took a walk to see some parasailors.  All in all the day was a good day for distraction, despite the looming reality of my former home in West Braintree.  




 












Saturday, July 7, 2012

From Lo via the International Herald Tribune, 6 July 2012

Saint-Michel


 This weekend I visited my great uncle Lodewijk Woltjer.  He lives for three months or so in the south of France near an observatory. 

After I got out from the shower after the pool I was out on the porch talking to Lo.  I asked him about my family, his work, and anything I could think of that would get him to talk.  My Uncle Lo is an astronomer. At 56 he retired.  He worked for ESO (European Southern Observatory), La Silla Observatory in Chile as well as for the European group on the Hubble.  He recounted stories of his time working in Chile where there is a large observatory. Originally there was an observatory about 500 km from Santiago. Then another observatory was built a little further away.  Finally Lo went out at some point and drove through the deserts and the mountains and found a spot, high on a mountain so as not to have the effects of the atmosphere and today there is an observatory on top of a mountain that my Uncle Lo discovered that is American, European and Japanese shared http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Silla_Observatory.  Lo now works on the influence of human life on our earth and how long humans can continue to survive on the world/earth they have created.  He recently published a book that he co-authored with a Frenchman about the existence of humans and the fragility and survivability of humanity on Earth.  The book titled Surviving Centuries: Can We Do It? Lo says that while the book is not projected to a completely academic audience, it is for an educated one and recently the book has begun to be translated into Chinese.  He gave a talk in 2009 that can be found on YouTube that discusses this exact theme.  Lo said that while his co-author is French, his French is not writable, however his speaking French is impeccable, even my host mother in Avignon thinks so.  Lo said that he lost interest in astronomy because human life and the environment seemed to him, more applicable and more pertinent to the human condition and the future of the world.  For this reason he switched his focus in the 1980s as he began researching for this new book.  But Lo remembers that when his mother went to church, his father would bring him up to his study and at age 6 or so, open up the Encyclopedia Britannica and show him images of the stars and galaxies.  Lo worked also for the Observatoire de Haute-Provence in Saint-Michel in the town he lives in for three months during the summer in the south of France.  This observatory is not as successful as it once was because funding is hard to come by.  The station was started because there was a rich woman from America who inherited a lot of money (from a family like Colgate).  She married an Egyptian man who wanted his own money to be spent on the other women he indulged in but he needed a profitable business with which to place his money.  So he decided to build an observatory before the war (World War II) and he first looked in Geneva but couldn’t find anything.  He came to the south of France and found this spot in Saint-Michel and built this observatory, which still stands today.  This observatory is also the same spot that recently spotted a planet outside of our galaxy that we know today.  The observatory is placed halfway up a mountain which Lo says was erroneous as the cold wet atmosphere runs down the mountain creating problems for the telescopes and therefore the observatory is not as effective as it could be.  The Mistral also poses problems and degrades the quality of the atmosphere for viewing. For these reasons, the La Silla Observatory has become the prominent research base for the European Astronomers. If only, he says, they had placed the observatory at the top, where one side of the mountain is a sheer cliff, maybe the observatory could continue to be in use.  However with the discovery of this new planet, the observatory has 5-10 more years of funding and then who knows.  Lo says that if you look you can see 15 or so telescopes, but in reality only 4 or 5 still are working.  I asked Lo later in the evening, after two bottles of rosé, if he thought humans were capable of surviving on our earth for much longer.  He said that if humans were careful and continued to live a stable equitable lifestyle, we could continue to live.  However, he noted, that we must be conscious of our production of agriculture and our use of water.  There is enough water in the world, but the problem is a lack of pipelines, which are not always able to bring water, that is pure and safe to areas that need it.  I then asked Lo if he saw the enormous orange moon from two nights ago.  He said he did, although the trees were in the way so it was difficult to see.  He said that the great size of the moon is a trick of the eye and the brain and a mystery still.  He thinks it is a psychological process that causes man to see the moon as very large. When in reality, the moon is no bigger than usual.
  
I also talked to Lo about my grandmother, Anna, his sister.  When I first sat down outside the porch he said that I reminded him so much of Anna.  And he said, when I laughed, that I was even more like her.  I never met my grandmother and it brings tears of happiness and sadness to my eyes to bring back the memory of her to my great uncle as I sit across from him.  I have heard so many stories about her, and even more tonight, but to hear that I remind him of her and that I look just like her is a gift for both he and I.  Anna was the rebellious daughter, Lo said.  Margo, if she wanted to do something, her mother let her do it, but Anna, not so much.  Anna worked for what LO called, the UNRA, United Nations Refugee Agency during the war where she met my grandfather, Janos.  Janos was undocumented, as at the time he did not have paperwork for is Hungarian citizenship.  Anna was working as a psychologist with refugees and children (Lo thinks) and at some point (that is still unclear to me) Anna was stripped of her Dutch citizenship.  My grandmother, Anna Woltjer was stateless.  Not long after Anna met Janos they boarded an immigration ship and came to America.

Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Avignon in July


3 July 2012
I just had the most amazing run, after getting back from my Provencal language class around 3:30 I put on my running clothes, my sneakers, and some SPF 20 bronzing spray to protect my gorgeous Provencal tan and hopped down the stairs to the running/bike path alongside the ancient walls of Avignon.  Previously I had been getting up at 6am or 6:30am but it was just too early and this morning it was a little chilly so I decided that I would go running in the afternoon.  I began my usual route heading towards the Rhône, but when I got to the entrance I usually take to run down through the center city, I kept running and ran around the entire exterior of the walls.  The run was pleasant, except that the path is directly up against the traffic, but nonetheless I got to see the entire outside of the city and the elderly French men playing petanque, a French game equivalent to what many of us know as bocce which is actually just the Italian version of basically the same game.  I also passed the University of Avignon, which I have yet to explore and use their library.  It wasn’t too hot this afternoon and the Mistral, the wind that comes off the Rhône was quite pleasant as I ran along.  The only downside I can see to running in the afternoons as opposed to the early mornings is that no bread trucks with fresh baguette pass me in the afternoon so I can whiff the deliciously fresh baked bread, but maybe in the end, it is for the best. 

4 July 2012
Today was the first day of the soldes which is three weeks, mandated by the government that things go on sale in France!  You’d think it would be wonderful, for those of us who love to shop, however the first day is mere torture.  You cannot walk into a store and expect to: breathe, move, see, or touch anything.  Too many people! Too many racks!  Not enough space in the world (store).  Times like these when I miss empty space in Colorado or fields in Vermont.  I enjoy breathing and shopping, well, that can wait as long as I don’t faint from the overwhelming presence of tourists and locals.  It probably doesn’t help that I’m wearing my backpack and so I end up hitting people as a whirl around the run out of the store after five minutes of sheer exhaustion.  But with that backpack I can hop on my bike and zip away from the tourists, the locals, and the soldes.  I ended up at the opposite end of the main street from where my classes are where I noticed an outdoor book market.  I tied up my bike to a pole and went to look around.  There were old books, new books, leather books, and glossy books, books on yoga, books on Provence, comic books, and cds, and vinyls and posters.  It was quite the array.  I wandered around and found myself looking at a book about the Congo by André Gide.  It was a very old edition, kept safe in plastic and I was thinking of buying it since it said 1,55 on the inside cover and I thought to myself “that sounds like a good deal, I hope it isn’t a first edition because then I’m ripping them off.”  Much to my dismay however, the woman whose stand it was came over and told me (in French) that the book came as a duo, with another book by the same offer.  I said cool and then asked her how much it was.  “cent cinquante-cinq euros pour les deux” she said.  I smiled and thanked her.  I waited until she and found another customer to talk to and I carefully put the books back where I found them and walked away, thanking her again on the way out.  There was no way I was going to pay 155 Euros for two books.  But they probably were first editions.