Sunday, July 29, 2012
France, Italy, Monaco, France
Friday, July 13, 2012
Montpellier, France
Life in Avignon seems to go on; in a good way of
course. A few days ago my host
parents went to a concert at the amphitheatre in Nimes and I asked them if it
was all right to invite two of my friends over to cook dinner with me. They said of course although they were
a bit worried I think that I might burn the house down, forget to feed the cat,
or some other kind of incident when in fact everything went quite well. I cooked some pasta with mushrooms and
zucchini and salad. And for
dessert A___ made profiteroles. We
also had the rosé that my great uncle had given me the weekend before, “for
when I was thirsty.” Cooking the profiteroles
was quite the adventure because although my host mom had showed me how to use
their complicated small, gas stove, for some reason when the time came, I
couldn’t get it to work, so I pulled down the toaster oven as I had seen my
host mom do before and I plugged it in outside on the deck and we cooked the profiteroles
in there. They were a bit crispy
on the bottom but otherwise quite perfect. We had a grand time, the cat survived and so did we.
Last night I went to a performance as part of the Festival
d’Avignon “In.” The play was called
The Master and Margarita. It was
performed in the Palais de Papes in the Cour d’Honneur, which is an amazing
theater/performance space. Quite
the treat! It lasted three hours
and my tushy was uncomfortable for three hours. My mind was also a bit unsettled as the performance unfolded
however because the story line was unclear for the first hour and then the last
two hours didn’t really relate to the first hour. Some of the characters were quite strange including a cat
puppet that spoke vulgar things and had red eyes like the “diable.” The most impressive part of the
performance, besides the space itself was the use of technology. They had a few video cameras on the
stage and would occasionally film the actors during the performance and project
those images on to the walls of the Cour d’Honneur or on the stage adding some
very magnificent special effects. A
good experience and great special effects!
Today was a mixed bag.
My parents moved from our house that I have lived in for twenty-one
years to another house in which I have never lived. We will now be living in Montpelier, which I love as a city
and I think I will grow to love the house. Nonetheless being so far from home (if that still exists) was
a bit strange knowing that my homes
were in transition. Instead of
being melancholy all day I went to Montpellier, France, which is a fantastic
city. Montpellier is very
pedestrian friendly and a huge college town so there are many young people and
easy to use and frequently accessible public transportation of various
sorts. I went with two friends and
we toured the city following a guide from the office of tourism that showed us
some main sights and then we had a lunch of delicious salads in a small
piazza. After lunch we took the
tram and then a bus to the beach.
We had originally thought we would rent bikes, but it turned out to be
much more complicated and too expensive and the tram was quite enjoyable. I took a nap on the beach and then took
a walk to see some parasailors. All
in all the day was a good day for distraction, despite the looming reality of
my former home in West Braintree.

Saturday, July 7, 2012
Saint-Michel
This weekend I visited my great uncle Lodewijk Woltjer. He lives for three months or so in the south of France near an observatory.
After I
got out from the shower after the pool I was out on the porch talking to
Lo. I asked him about my family,
his work, and anything I could think of that would get him to talk. My Uncle Lo is an astronomer. At 56 he
retired. He worked for ESO (European Southern Observatory), La
Silla Observatory in Chile as well as for the European group on the Hubble. He recounted stories of his time
working in Chile where there is a large observatory. Originally there was an observatory
about 500 km from Santiago. Then another observatory was built a little further
away. Finally Lo went out at some
point and drove through the deserts and the mountains and found a spot, high on
a mountain so as not to have the effects of the atmosphere and today there is
an observatory on top of a mountain that my Uncle Lo discovered that is
American, European and Japanese shared http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Silla_Observatory. Lo now works on the influence of human
life on our earth and how long humans can continue to survive on the
world/earth they have created. He
recently published a book that he co-authored with a Frenchman about the
existence of humans and the fragility and survivability of humanity on Earth. The book titled Surviving Centuries: Can We Do It? Lo says that while the book is
not projected to a completely academic audience, it is for an educated one and
recently the book has begun to be translated into Chinese. He gave a talk in 2009 that can be
found on YouTube that discusses this exact theme. Lo said that while his co-author is French, his French is
not writable, however his speaking French is impeccable, even my host mother in
Avignon thinks so. Lo said that he
lost interest in astronomy because human life and the environment seemed to
him, more applicable and more pertinent to the human condition and the future
of the world. For this reason he
switched his focus in the 1980s as he began researching for this new book. But Lo remembers that when his mother
went to church, his father would bring him up to his study and at age 6 or so,
open up the Encyclopedia Britannica and show him images of the stars and
galaxies. Lo worked also for the Observatoire
de Haute-Provence in Saint-Michel in the town he lives in for three months
during the summer in the south of France.
This observatory is not as successful as it once was because funding is
hard to come by. The station was
started because there was a rich woman from America who inherited a lot of
money (from a family like Colgate).
She married an Egyptian man who wanted his own money to be spent on the
other women he indulged in but he needed a profitable business with which to
place his money. So he decided to
build an observatory before the war (World War II) and he first looked in
Geneva but couldn’t find anything.
He came to the south of France and found this spot in Saint-Michel and
built this observatory, which still stands today. This observatory is also the same spot that recently spotted
a planet outside of our galaxy that we know today. The observatory is placed halfway up a mountain which Lo
says was erroneous as the cold wet atmosphere runs down the mountain creating
problems for the telescopes and therefore the observatory is not as effective
as it could be. The Mistral also
poses problems and degrades the quality of the atmosphere for viewing. For
these reasons, the La Silla Observatory has become the prominent research base
for the European Astronomers. If only, he says, they had placed the observatory
at the top, where one side of the mountain is a sheer cliff, maybe the
observatory could continue to be in use.
However with the discovery of this new planet, the observatory has 5-10
more years of funding and then who knows.
Lo says that if you look you can see 15 or so telescopes, but in reality
only 4 or 5 still are working. I
asked Lo later in the evening, after two bottles of rosé, if he thought humans
were capable of surviving on our earth for much longer. He said that if humans were careful and
continued to live a stable equitable lifestyle, we could continue to live. However, he noted, that we must be
conscious of our production of agriculture and our use of water. There is enough water in the world, but
the problem is a lack of pipelines, which are not always able to bring water,
that is pure and safe to areas that need it. I then asked Lo if he saw the enormous orange moon from two
nights ago. He said he did,
although the trees were in the way so it was difficult to see. He said that the great size of the moon
is a trick of the eye and the brain and a mystery still. He thinks it is a psychological process
that causes man to see the moon as very large. When in reality, the moon is no
bigger than usual.
I also talked to Lo about my grandmother, Anna, his sister. When I first sat down outside the porch
he said that I reminded him so much of Anna. And he said, when I laughed, that I was even more like
her. I never met my grandmother
and it brings tears of happiness and sadness to my eyes to bring back the
memory of her to my great uncle as I sit across from him. I have heard so many stories about her,
and even more tonight, but to hear that I remind him of her and that I look
just like her is a gift for both he and I. Anna was the rebellious daughter, Lo said. Margo, if she wanted to do something,
her mother let her do it, but Anna, not so much. Anna worked for what LO called, the UNRA, United Nations
Refugee Agency during the war where she met my grandfather, Janos. Janos was undocumented, as at the time
he did not have paperwork for is Hungarian citizenship. Anna was working as a psychologist with
refugees and children (Lo thinks) and at some point (that is still unclear to
me) Anna was stripped of her Dutch citizenship. My grandmother, Anna Woltjer was stateless. Not long after Anna met Janos they
boarded an immigration ship and came to America.
Wednesday, July 4, 2012
Avignon in July
3 July 2012
I just had the most amazing run, after getting back from my
Provencal language class around 3:30 I put on my running clothes, my sneakers,
and some SPF 20 bronzing spray to protect my gorgeous Provencal tan and hopped
down the stairs to the running/bike path alongside the ancient walls of
Avignon. Previously I had been
getting up at 6am or 6:30am but it was just too early and this morning it was a
little chilly so I decided that I would go running in the afternoon. I began my usual route heading towards
the Rhône, but when I got to the entrance I usually take to run down through
the center city, I kept running and ran around the entire exterior of the
walls. The run was pleasant,
except that the path is directly up against the traffic, but nonetheless I got
to see the entire outside of the city and the elderly French men playing
petanque, a French game equivalent to what many of us know as bocce which is
actually just the Italian version of basically the same game. I also passed the University of
Avignon, which I have yet to explore and use their library. It wasn’t too hot this afternoon and
the Mistral, the wind that comes off the Rhône was quite pleasant as I ran
along. The only downside I can see
to running in the afternoons as opposed to the early mornings is that no bread
trucks with fresh baguette pass me in the afternoon so I can whiff the
deliciously fresh baked bread, but maybe in the end, it is for the best.
4 July 2012
Today was the first day of the soldes which is three weeks,
mandated by the government that things go on sale in France! You’d think it would be wonderful, for
those of us who love to shop, however the first day is mere torture. You cannot walk into a store and expect
to: breathe, move, see, or touch anything. Too many people! Too many racks! Not enough space in the world (store). Times like these when I miss empty
space in Colorado or fields in Vermont.
I enjoy breathing and shopping, well, that can wait as long as I don’t
faint from the overwhelming presence of tourists and locals. It probably doesn’t help that I’m
wearing my backpack and so I end up hitting people as a whirl around the run
out of the store after five minutes of sheer exhaustion. But with that backpack I can hop on my
bike and zip away from the tourists, the locals, and the soldes. I ended up at the opposite end of the
main street from where my classes are where I noticed an outdoor book
market. I tied up my bike to a
pole and went to look around.
There were old books, new books, leather books, and glossy books, books
on yoga, books on Provence, comic books, and cds, and vinyls and posters. It was quite the array. I wandered around and found myself
looking at a book about the Congo by André Gide. It was a very old edition, kept safe in plastic and I was
thinking of buying it since it said 1,55 on the inside cover and I thought to
myself “that sounds like a good deal, I hope it isn’t a first edition because
then I’m ripping them off.” Much
to my dismay however, the woman whose stand it was came over and told me (in
French) that the book came as a duo, with another book by the same offer. I said cool and then asked her how much
it was. “cent cinquante-cinq euros
pour les deux” she said. I smiled
and thanked her. I waited until
she and found another customer to talk to and I carefully put the books back
where I found them and walked away, thanking her again on the way out. There was no way I was going to pay 155
Euros for two books. But they
probably were first editions.
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